a month, I traveled to Iran, station made in eight cities and learned a lot. No other country in the world has probably at the time such a bad international reputation as Iran. Iran's less angry dwarf, as last observed in the UN is holding the country constant in the headlines. The Iranians know all too well, no question I was asked many times in the street like this, "What do you think about Iran,"
Many Iranians are very concerned about the image of Iran with us and decided to do something about it and I a very different side to show. With their opinion about government and the situation in the country to keep the Iranians at all behind the mountain. In fact, the Iranians seem to me the most political people to be that I have ever met. Everywhere people talk about updates, discussed politics and current events, and almost everyone is immediately ready to share his views with me.
My first host in Tehran (I am using deliberately no names) has his apartment near the Meydan Azadi (Freedom Square). This area was last year after the elections the center of the anti-government demonstrations. The entire neighborhood was surrounded by Basij militia, the mood tense for days. My other friend in west Tehran has thrown stones against policemen and observed, was shot as to humans. The atmosphere must have been incredibly tense, unpredictable and highly dangerous for any protesters. Nevertheless, countless students have been on the road and many young people who have previously completed not about politics, the green movement.
This year has so far remained peaceful. The government prevented with massive intimidation of any protest.
The leaders and guardians of the Islamic Revolution, Ayatollah Khomeini, the great and his successor Khamenei, Iran views as "supreme leader" is known, as ever, thousands of houses down walls and billboards. But it is especially the many young people with whom I speak, which I convey something of the mood that prevails in the country. The "bomb" (not the atomic bomb) was fired last year and for many it is only a matter of time before it explodes completely. me it was very exciting to capture this mood in conversations with young people. I I will soon take the time to evaluate all that and write a report.
The many educated young people who are concerned about the future of their country and are aware of social issues, represent a crucial counterbalance dar. The last year has been shown in public that Iran is simply not sufficient to fanatical crowds is that hate speech American flags and screaming burn.
The same is true for the image of women that prevails among us. I have met many extremely self-conscious young women, the majority of students in Iran are female. Nevertheless, women experience in many areas of society, especially in court or at work, Disadvantage. The book "My Iran" by Nobel Peace Prize winners Shirin Ebadi is there and was very informative for me before my visit to Iran is a good read.
However, Iran is not just about politics. I've met on my trip very different places to represent the diversity of the country. Tabriz in the northwest of the country is the capital of an ethnic group that is used by the Iranians commonly referred to as "Turks". There, Azari, a Turkish dialect, spoken, with most Azaris also speak Persian. Also, Rasht, near the Caspian Sea, has its own dialect of Persian, known as Gilaki. On Gilaki I learn the words "Ti bala Wed sar" (I love you) and every time I use him harvest I wonder and joy - a German speaks Gilaki the Gilan region is very green, wooded hills, tea plantations and a very humid climate. landscape reminds me sometimes of Germany ...
Wüst it's getting more then south of Tehran. from Kashan, a small town between Tehran and Isfahan, I take a trip into the desert and make acquaintance with a very nice camel. How you can see, we are fast friends. The culturally interesting cities of Iran's Isfahan, Yazd and Shiraz. Isfahan is famous for the great Imam Square Two famous mosque, a palace and lively bazaar gears. In Yazd, you can visit the ancient sites of the Zoroastrian, still living followers of this ancient pre-Islamic region there and preserve their traditions.
In Shiraz, I visit the grave of Hafiz, the greatest of Persian poets. It's interesting just how enthusiastic young people in Iran, for the old poets. In the evening, crowds flock to the park, students recite poems from thick books and men and women reverently kiss the grave of Hafiz. Many sent their wishes and hopes of Hafiz and looking for answers in his verses.
The Persian language is almost done for poetry, very melodic and not as harsh as the one Arab appears often. It could be Persian (Farsi) as the "French of the Middle East" call. I play really with the idea to learn it one day. Inshallah (God willing)! But first, India is Hindi tuned ...
The long history of Iran is a very important part of Iranian identity. Many people are very proud of the old Persian kings, and Persepolis, the ancient ruined city of the Persian empire, is a popular domestic tourist. In the sweltering heat, I explore the ruins, the most in their to compare historical weight with the pyramids of Egypt. Persepolis happy politicians still use the power of demonstration. Ahmadinejad was photographed there several times threw the Shah to the 2500th Birthday of the Persian Empire in Persepolis, an opulent party (the people not as well received).
is only recently in the National Museum of Tehran, on loan from London arrived the famous Cyrus Cylinder, a type of Persian King Cyrus, which is now considered first declaration of human rights. It is the irony of history that Iran appeared to have been more about human rights 2500 years ago than today.
particularly in the years under Ahmadinejad have been grown in the Islamic Republic of Iran, the customs regulations. Most of rules, the predecessor and reformer Khatami had been loosened from Ahmadinejad re-enforced.
is everywhere present in busy public places, shopping centers and parks, police and ensures compliance with the law. For women, there is compulsory headscarf, knees must be covered (by wearing an "manteaus") and too much makeup can be a problem. In cities, these rules, however, little attention from young women. The headscarf often sits far back and slips often times quite accidentally by the hair. With a quick gesture, it is set right again in the hope that someone may have noticed the nice hair. Much makeup is usually a sign that a woman not at all with the Rules and the constraints imposed on agrees.
The same applies to couples: Premarital relationships are forbidden, but in Tehran, young couples holding hands not a rare sight.
In Isfahan I observed a young man, as he stopped his car on a sidewalk and nimble and unobserved two pretty women handed a piece of paper with his phone number out the window. In a country without going out and flirting opportunities, it is sometimes not easy to find a partner.
the way, there also limitations for men: could I leave my shorts in Iran very bottom of the backpack, they are banned in public.
I remember in all this to a set of the Prophet Mohammed that have impressed me Muslims in Syria and over again: "There is no compulsion in religion". The leaders of the Islamic Republic of Iran appear as a different opinion to have. For many Muslims in their country Iran is, however, in any case neither a republic nor Muslim (but only in name). Even in Iran, I have experienced very warm hospitality. A doctor in Rasht has postponed his family holiday for me and took two extra free days to show me his home area and to chauffeur me to different places. In Tehran, I was home to six days by a student and Isfahan I helped a young art student learning German (after English in Iran seems to be German is the most popular foreign language). Especially German will be received with open arms, the opinion of Germany (technology, sports, etc.) is highly positive. The first topic of conversation is usually football, very annoying for an anti-football fan (except for World Cup season). In most cases, is asked first to Iranian football players in Germany and thanks to my Iranian friends I know now, Ali Daei, who, as I was enlightened, who once played for Arminia Bielefeld.
Hospitality has, as in all countries of the Middle East a top priority in Iran, but Here me is the openness towards strangers attention in particular. It is probably also the knowledge that many of us have a completely wrong image of Iran and would never come here, which leaves the people who receive few visitors so warmly. On the street I will always be of oncoming pedestrians "Welcome to Iran!" Contrary to established. What Iranians should therefore be expected in Germany? Such comparisons I've made time in my Syria trip already ...
It was a relief for me when Ramadan was over at last. In Iran, existing rules are much stricter than in Turkey or Iraq, and no restaurant has opened. Anyone smoking in the Ramadan is caught on the street can expect jail.
Sometimes you have it not as a vegetarian in Iran easy to find something without meat. In Tehran, I have enjoyed eating in a vegetarian restaurant that is there, excited by young students of a high popularity. Otherwise
is traveling in Iran very convenient bus connections between cities are frequent, comfortable and cheap. The long distances in Iran can be so (or train, I once made) to travel well. Sometimes
was it for me while traveling in Iran days with almost no expenses, because my host (even against my protests) have taken care of. I wish I really, at some point these people are called in Germany (or elsewhere?) and allowed some of that to give back what I could receive in Iran.
salt lake near Kashan
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